207 miles across the Olympic Peninsula

With 70 miles and the Pacific Ocean behind us, we left Forks after a comfortable nights stay at a motel and we made our way up the Bogachiel River knowing that some adverse weather was on its way to intercept us.  But weren't we supposed to have Rain in the Rain Forest?  Doesn't it always rain in the rain forest?  It seemed like it.  We stayed wet for two and half days. 

We met Ranger Bogachiel Beth who has been working this drainage for 15 years and has logged in about 6000 miles.  Infinite shades of green surrounded us as we slogged through wet vegetation up the drainage towards the Solduck Valley.  The trail was wiped out in about five different places where the river and adjacent creeks forever altered the course of the meandering trail.  This river trail seemed so unused higher up that May Lilies carpeted the pathway.  Most of the southern slopes of the high passes we crossed were essentially snow free, but the northern faces of our trails still were holding on to the grip of winter.  We opted on forging our path through snow down the Mink Lake Trail to Soleduck lodge where we soaked in developed hot springs and enjoyed a fancy dinner with the luxury of having a roof over our heads.  The manager at the front desk took pity on us and offered to have our smelly clothes dried in their commercial dryers.  No longer were we to look like wet cats.

The next day we explored the beauty of Soleduck Falls and enjoyed spying on the dippers that had a secret nest next to this cascading wonder.  Big flakes of snow fell on us just below Appleton pass where avalanche and glacier lilies were emerging from the raw earth by the millions.  Elk continued to grace us with their presence.

It was surprisingly steep coming down the North Side of the Pass, but the snow was soft and allowed us to sink freely with each careful step we took.  And finally we had some views.  The rain and snow was now complete and the skies began to clear.  And the terrain itself was different too.  With each drainage and the further east we traveled, the composition of the forest itself changed due to the varying amounts of rain and snow accumulation in a years time.  Our next camp was at Olympic Hot Springs with about 10 rocky shallow pools to choose to soak in.  Some Yahoo, however, broke the peace by shooting off a load of 22 bullets at some unknown target. 

Next we found ourselves next to the controversially damned Lake Mills and swang south up the Elwah drainage. A mountain beaver, unrelated to the beaver, was dragging lady fern up a steep slope.  We felt all warm and tingly from some bright and yellow object in the sky.  We were to have sunny and blue skies to this day.  Old Restored and Maintained Historical Cabins were common on this river.  The spotted owl seem to like it here a lot too.  We spotted two fairly large babies a mile south of Elkhorn and another three young south of Elkhorn with some down feathers still on their heads.  They were able to fly well though, already. The next day had us climbing up towards Hayden Pass through forests of Douglas fir, Western White Pine, and even Lodgepole pine till we hit the Silver Fir or Montane Zone.  And what exquisite views of Mount Olympus and its' Glaciers.  The heart of the Olympic Mountains still had an abundance of snow from about 5,500 feet to 7000 feet and above on the northern slopes.  Coming around a corner of the trail, I was completely startled to have a startled bear walking before my very face.  This large bear had been walking the trail all the way from the Dosiewallups drainage about three miles way where we could see his fresh prints traversing the snow fields directly over the hidden trail.  Marsh Marigolds, Pasqueflowers, larkspurs, bluebells, paintbrushes, and hundreds of other flowers showed themselves off to us and the infinite amounts of pollinating ants, beetles, butterflies, and birds along the journey.  Bear number 4 was lumbering slowly daydreaming within its head before us on the trail as we followed it for a while till we could get its attention. 

The steepest trail we took was about a 5000 foot climb towards Constance Pass near the parks border with Olympic National Forest.  Beautiful Pacific Rhododendron's lined this switchbacking chore to the subalpine where yet another bear was digging up roots for a sunset meal.  We made sure to announce our presence and to apologize for our temporary intrusion for the night.  She didn't seem to mind though.  The next morning brought us to our highest point of about 6, 500 feet with fantastic views of southern Puget Sound, Mt Rainier, and even Mt Adams, and Mt St. Helen's.  This region of the Olympics seemed much drier with much more Alpine characteristics.  On the way back up towards Marmot pass, this feeling was reflected by the presence of very old lodgepole pines that transitioned into a beautiful white barked pine forest with Clark's Nutcrackers to boot.  A view of Glacier Peak in the Cascades found our eyes, and eventually Mount Baker to the Northeast became an ever-present beacon to this day.

Unfortunately, the Olympic Mountain Passes and Summits were now over as we descended towards and then down the Dungeness River and then eastward on Logging roads and eventually to paved Roads that brought us into Port Townsend to end this Journey's segment of 207 miles across the Olympic Peninsula.