Happy Trails from Northport, WA

Hi to Everyone from the Pacific Northwest Trail.

Stacey and I are currently in Northport, WA at the Matteson House Bed and Breakfast for a couple of days to recoup our bodies after a long few weeks across central and eastern Washington State. It's only been seven days since we left Oroville, but our bodies and minds are telling us its been more like three weeks. Our bodies have become lean hiking machines with our spirits guiding the way.

From Hannegan Pass Road we climbed into the mountains once again and literally became swallowed by the immense towering glaciated peaks of North Cascades National Park. When I had finished up the Pacific Crest Trail back in 2001, I had traveled through the Pasayten Wilderness and was awe struck by the beauty and ruggedness of these mountains and vowed to hike across them one day and across the Pasayten itself. From the Pasayten, one can never escape the majestic views of the ever changing landscape for hundreds of miles in all directions. However, from within North Cascades National Park, one actually becomes engulfed by the mountains and the views are of the narrow glacially cut canyons and the intricately cut peaks that mountain climbers from around the world seem to risk their lives traversing these receding but grandiose ice fields. Here we saw our tenth and eleventh black bears, one of which had apparently been napping and sprang towards us like a curious dog through the crashing brush till it realized that we were humans and sped away in apparent fear of its life.

Stacey's Dad, Steve, met us at Highway 20 at Ross Lake on July 4th to resupply us for our six day trek thru the supreme Highlands of the Pasayten. Instead of hiking the Highway on the southern end of the Lake, we were told by a trail crew worker that an old trail below the Highway was being restored to life. It wasn't quite finished, but it was fun to hike and see the resurrection of a route that once was a thru-way of the past.

Stacey and I spent the day with Steve driving up to Rainy Pass to actually hike a portion of the Pacific Crest Trail, a trail we were to follow for about twelve miles further North near the Canadian border just a few days later.

Probably the best views and moments of our Journey so far came from our ascent up to Devil's Dome from Ross Lake. I suppose the name comes from having to climb about 5000 feet to achieve and absorb some of the best scenery this world probably has to offer. It's as if you can see the entire National Park to the south and west and understand why it was preserved. But grander yet was the ever changing landscape traversing across ridge-lines through sub-alpine firs, engleman spruce, and even across the deciduous alpine larch forests. One can never even remotely describe the beauty that this landscape emits. It in essence penetrates you and realigns your thoughts and your very core essence towards a peaceful balance of harmony. The energy is uplifting and giving and loving.

A change in weather actually found us near Bunker Hill and Quartz Mountain, providing us with a fresh layer of snow, hail, and slush to provide a stimulating new contrast to the terrain that we were calling our momentary Home. Every new turn in the trail didn't fail to surprise us and inspire us which to me is a sign of Nature's perfection.

Mule deer soon began to grace us by the dozens along subalpine meadows that accepted us while the white tailed deer with its long flashing white tail seemed to flee from us.

We were now in Horse country and fresh horse and mule tracks were seen everywhere, however, we didn't manage to see a single person till our sixth day as the remote mountains began to fade behind us and we were now to descend to the dry lowlands of Palmer Lake and Oroville.

Ponderosa Pines, Douglas Fir, Western Larch, and Lodgepole pines dominated this region. To this point along the trail we had only been hauling one liter of water to drink along our Way. However, now the dryness and heat dictated that we carry two liters between watering holes. Between Oroville and Northport there were a few times when we didn't bring enough water and heat exhaustion tooks it toll. We still hiked with vigor, but each step was felt all the more.

Bonaparte Lake Resort was a nice Refuge where we added some extra food fuel to our bags and filled our stomachs with a rich meal before our next stop five days later in the Hamlet of Orient, WA. Since we are hiking the trail backwards as described in the guide, we came across a few sections, where finding ancient routes became a challenge. We were never lost, its just that we sometimes didn't know where the official route was in a few places. No matter. Each step is our journey and a part of our quest. We even met a cowboy Heading up to Mt Constance by Horse that clarified the beginning of a hidden trail section and entrance from a forest service road.

Then it was time for our first official cross country trail segments where there is no trail and just bearings, and canyons and ridge-lines to follow. Hiking the ridges is the easy part. Climbing up the brushy tangled canyons is the slow and frustrating part. It takes a lot out of you at times, but the views are worth it. Cows are the largest signs of wildlife in this region.

After finishing our bushwhack to Trail Number 3 in the southern Kettle Crest range, an old fire from 1988 burned 20,000 acres in this area. It seemed like a 1000 trees were down along this ridge-line. And just as we exited this maze, we came across a couple from the Washington Back-country Horseman Association that had chain-saw in hand ready to once again reclaim this trail.

Now finally we were on a premiere trail segment once again when we came to the junction with the Kettle Crest National Recreation Trail. This beautifully maintained trail once again presented views for hundreds of miles. Forest Fires to the South and West, however, began to haze the sky around us. Smoke could even be whiffed in the air. This, however, made for wonderful sunsets. A couple of guys on horseback even turned out to be trail angels and offered us a Guiness beer and a can of Chunky Soup.

Soon we found ourselves walking the scenic roads into the old Gold Mining town or Orient. From here we were only a days walk to Northport. We treated ourselves to a dose of high calories and set off to make it here to the Columbia River by Nightfall. We even saw three beavers along a stretch of Big Sheep Creek and we put our legs into overdrive to reach our present temporary home here at the towns, beautiful, bed and breakfast.

The State of Idaho is in site and is our Next goal with Bonner's Ferry as our next intended Resupply Town. Thanks to those of you who have written, and Stacey and I will try and write back to you all when we find the cyber-time.

We hope you are all having a wonderful summer.

Bern and Stacey